Grand Seiko shines on several fronts at Watches as well as Wonders 2024
From brand-new hand-wound high-frequency movements in order to patented dial treatments, japan watchmaker's watchmaking prowess ended up being on full display.
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As its debut at Watches and Wonders 2022, Grand Seiko has been one of the most talked-about models at the show; it first showed its first mechanical complications, the Kodo Constant Power Tourbillon, and followed up recently with its first mechanical time counter, the Tentagraph. This year, the idea covered all the bases which has a range of elegant dress timepieces and beautiful sports wrist watches, while catching the eye while using 20th anniversary Spring Travel Caliber 9R, an new version of the GPHG-winning Kodo, and in many cases a new high-frequency movement. Here are several of the highlights.
Evolution being unfaithful (Ref: SLGW002 and SLGW003)
Grand Seiko's headline merchandise may not be as flashy like previous years, but these kinds of are just as noteworthy. At first glance, both equally
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feature textured watch dials said to be inspired by birch trees. Yet, hidden through this otherwise understated dress see is the Japanese watchmaker's very first manual-winding high-beat movement throughout 50 years, the Calibre 9SA4, the third automatic movement from the 9S platform, which includes the actual Tentagraph's 9SC5.
Although good Calibre 9SA5 and revealing some common features, such as a 10-beat frequency and 80-hour reserve of power (thanks to an efficient double-impulse escapement and two barrels), nearly 40 percent on the 9SA4 has been redesigned along with reworked to enhance the responsive, auditory, and visual connection with winding. For example , its pawls (the parts that make the particular ratchet wheel resist typically the force of the mainspring) are generally shaped like wagtails, and the bird-like pecking action might be observed through the sapphire crystal caseback when winding.
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Typically the 38. 6mm case is definitely 9. 95mm thick which is available in either shiny challenging titanium (Ref. SLGW003) or maybe 18K rose gold (Ref. SLGW002). The “star” designation reveals that its hour paintball guns are also made of yellow gold.
Calibre 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition (Ref. SBGC275)
Celebrating often the 20th anniversary of the 1st Grand Seiko watch to be able to feature the 9R Springtime Drive movement, this new Early spring Drive Chronograph GMT incorporates a patented dial treatment referred to as “Optical Multi-Coating”. Essentially, numerous layers of nano-thin videos are applied via actual vapor deposition to highlight the actual dial's intricate “lion's mane” texture. The dial's layout is inspired by the Hotaka Mountains and, thanks to some sort of novel technique, it appears to switch color, evoking the colors of any summer morning amidst the particular vast landscape.
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Limited to 700 pieces, typically the Ref. SBGC275's 44.5mm case houses the self-winding Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Calibre 9R96, a especially calibrated version of the 9R86 with an accuracy of ±10 seconds per month and a reserve of power of 72 hours.
Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon (Ref. SLGT005)
Speaking of mornings, often the Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon returns this year, inspired by simply dawn. The 2022 first, which won the Chronograph Award at that year's GPHG, was a bit somber featuring its grey-toned interweaving of light in addition to shadow, but the new Ref. SLGT005 lights things up using silver-toned movement components in which recall dawn. Notably, sapphires are used for the first time in a Grand Seiko movement, seemingly mimicking morning dew.
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Situated in a 43. 8 mm diameter case in 950 platinum (inner case) as well as bright hardened titanium (outer case), the innovative Tama?o 9ST1 is more striking than previously, as its meticulously hand-finished ingredients are even more visible below. Barely shielding the wondering eye, this 340-part skeletal frame movement proudly displays their inner workings, including the clever integration of the constant-force process and tourbillon as a model on one axis, thus making sure that the transmitted torque is simply not lost or varied.
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